Photo by Paul Marais-Hayer
This is a story about how hope never disappoints. The past few years have been a challenge. Balancing motherhood while transforming my business into a full-fledged studio dedicated to crafting high-quality custom clothing AND providing a space for students who want to learn the art of sewing and design. Managing, creating, and teaching is no easy feat.
One day, as I struggled to find order in my work and discern my next steps, doubt crept in. Am I doing anything right? Instead of giving in to frustration, I said a prayer. Then I opened my inbox - sometimes, God answers right away!
At first, I thought it was a scam. Could this really be a message from Usha Vance, wife of the Vice President? The email, sent by her assistant, requested custom wool coats for her children to wear at the Inauguration, just a few weeks away. The message was loud and clear: it was time to invest even more in my craft, embrace new opportunities, and use this experience to build a stronger teaching studio for the future.
Crafting High-Quality Custom Outerwear
This project was more than an exciting commission—it was a meeting of minds. From the start, Usha and her team shared my belief that design and construction must work together to create something truly exceptional. Too often, clients prioritize aesthetics over function, leading to impractical results. But Usha’s team understood my vision, and together, we set out to create bespoke children’s coats that were not only elegant but also durable, warm, and timeless.
Designing the Perfect Coats
With frigid January temperatures in mind, we opted for double-breasted wool coats with structured lapels, offering both warmth and sophistication. Before selecting the Pendleton wool, I focused on perfecting the patterns for the boys' tailored coats. To ensure an ideal fit, I created mock-ups and tested them on my nephews, who are of similar size.
Precision and craftsmanship were paramount. Handcrafted outerwear requires careful attention, especially in the shoulders and sleeves. I strive to emulate European tailoring, even for children’s garments, ensuring the coats provide both structure and comfort. The key is achieving just the right balance—loose enough to layer over a suit, yet fitted enough to maintain a polished silhouette and full movement of arms. My nephews, eager to "help," put the mock-ups to the test with a few rounds of “shadow-boxing” (to ensure great movement in the arms) as I made final adjustments!
Blending Tradition with Modern Craftsmanship
Beyond fit and function, these custom jackets needed to embody timeless craftsmanship. I used pad-stitching, a traditional tailoring technique, to add structure to the lapels and ensure a beautiful roll line. For insulation, I quilted 100% wool batting from Frankenmuth Mill in Michigan between layers of pure silk—providing warmth without bulk.
One of my signature touches in Anagrassia designs is leather detailing, and this project was no exception. I incorporated leather welt pockets and cuffs, enhancing both durability and style. Leather cuffs are particularly practical for children’s coats, as they prevent wear and extend the garment’s lifespan. Usha agreed to this idea, and I was thrilled to add this refined touch.
The final detail? Gold sailor buttons sourced from a small tailoring supplier in New York. Given J.D. Vance’s military background, I imagine this choice carried personal significance. And as a special hidden touch, my mother hand-embroidered "USA" in red, white, and blue under the boys' collars. A fun touch commemorating both the occasion and their subsequent trip abroad.
A Cape Fit for a Little Lady
For Usha’s youngest daughter, Mira, we created a custom cape-coat, inspired by an Anagrassia design she already owned. We modified it to align with the boys’ coats, enhancing warmth and structure with quilted silk lining and wool batting. The result was a double-breasted cape that offered both sophistication and comfort. On Inauguration Day, Mira’s personal accessories added a playful touch—proof that fashion should inspire confidence and joy at any age!
Mira’s cape buttons were gold to match her brothers’ jackets. It was fitting to spot Mira in her cape at the Cathedral of Notre Dame in Paris, because her filigree buttons reminded me so much of the rose window at Notre Dame.
American-Made, Designed with Purpose
This project was about more than just clothing—it was an opportunity to contribute to a historic event while staying true to my values. The coats were crafted from American-made materials: Pendleton wool, Michigan-sourced batting, and New York tailoring supplies. Every stitch reflected the spirit of the occasion and my deep appreciation for American craftsmanship.
Working with Usha Vance and her team was an absolute pleasure. Their clear vision and decisive collaboration made for a seamless process (no pun intended). Designing, patterning, and fitting these coats in just a few weeks—and sewing them in under a week!—was no small feat. But their enthusiasm and trust in my skills pushed me to do my best work.
The Journey Continues
It has been a joy to see the Vance kids continue wearing their custom wool coats on their travels. The now-viral video of the boys arriving in Paris in their tailored coats—over pajama pants, no less!—is both heartwarming and relatable. Seeing them at the Cathedral of Notre Dame and in Munich reinforced why I do what I do. Handmade clothing tells a story, carrying memories and meaning in every stitch.
This collaboration has been a defining moment in my career. It strengthened my passion for creating bespoke outerwear and reinforced my desire to expand custom boys’ clothing. But beyond that, it reignited my dream of building a studio where young girls can learn sewing and design—passing on the skills that make handcrafted clothing so special.
Where will this journey take me next? I remember the quiet prayer I whispered before this opportunity arrived, and even now, at this high point, I know I must continue forward with hope and patience. There are always more beautiful things to create.
Thank you for reading and for being part of this journey with me. If you're interested in custom designs or want to learn more about my work, I’d love to hear from you! Stay tuned for more behind-the-scenes looks at my latest projects as I continue crafting one-of-a-kind garments that merge tradition, artistry, and modern elegance.
Shop pieces here: Jackets and Capes for Kids
Here are some photos from the mock-ups and fittings I held in December with my nephews and daughter to perfect the style and fit of the jackets and cape. As you can see, we had a lot of fun throughout the process—especially my daughter!
My daughter is the same age and size of Mira Vance. She was my fit model for the cape. These photos also show how cute the cape is on young girls.
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